Best Concrete Sealer for Your Exterior Concrete or Pavers
With so many choices, it can be hard to determine which concrete sealer is best for your exterior concrete or pavers. We are going to take a minute to break down our concrete sealers and help you determine which concrete sealer is best for your application.
Natural, Unsealed Look
If you want to maintain the natural, unsealed look of your concrete or pavers, you want a Silane-Siloxane sealer like the Armor SX5000 WB (water-based) or Armor SX5000 (solvent-based). Silane-Siloxane sealers are designed to chemically react below the surface to form a water-repellent barrier that can’t be seen or touched. It works entirely below the surface and won’t change the look, color, or feel of your concrete or pavers. If your concrete or pavers are currently unsealed and you want to maintain the natural unsealed look, a Silane-Siloxane sealer is the best concrete sealer for your application.
While Silane-Siloxane sealers don’t leave a protective surface film, they still help to reduce damage and deterioration. By reducing the absorption of water through the pores of the concrete and pavers, damage and deterioration by water absorption is reduced because the water is forced to stay closer to the surface where it can evaporate faster. Concrete and pavers sealed with a Silane-Siloxane sealer are more resistant to cracking caused by water absorption, freeze-thaw damage, salt damage, and the growth of mold and mildew on the surface. Silane-Siloxane sealers help to reduce damage caused by water absorption, and help to make the surface easier to clean. Penetrating sealers are great for reducing and preventing.
So, between the SX5000 WB and the SX5000, which sealer is best? Both sealers are silane-siloxane sealers, but one is water-based and one is solvent-based. Which Silane-Siloxane sealer is best for you depends on your comfort with chemicals. They both spark the same chemical reaction, and they both create a hydrophobic barrier within the pores that reduces the absorption of water. The water-based version is more popular simply because you don’t require any special application equipment, and clean-up can be done with soap and water. There are some people that are die-hard solvent-based fans, which is why we offer both. Another benefit to solvent-based concrete sealers is that they can be applied when temperatures are a little colder, making them a popular option for people looking to seal when temperatures are below 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Now, what about concrete densifiers and surface hardeners, like the Armor S2000 and Armor L3000? Well, you can always densifier your concrete, it never hurts, but it isn’t always needed. Typically we don’t suggest a concrete densifier unless your concrete is showing signs of damage and deterioration, such as dusting. If you are using a densifier on exterior concrete however, you want to wait a few weeks and then apply a Silane-Siloxane sealer because densifiers can’t reduce damage and deterioration caused by water absorption. It is also important to avoid applying a concrete densifier to pavers, or medium to dark colored concrete. Concrete densifiers chemically react to form a crystalline barrier within the pores. This barrier resembles microscopic white crystals. When applied to a dark surface, those crystals can be visible throughout the entire substrate when applied to a dark surface, like a paver. The crystalline barrier formed by densifiers is permanent and can only be removed through mechanical grinding, which is why it is not recommended to pavers, or medium to dark concrete.
Wet Look
Wet look is interpreted differently depending on who you are talking to, so first, I want to break down what a wet look sealer is. A wet look sealer is a sealer that darkens the surface to give it a similar appearance to being wet. Wet look doesn’t have anything to do with the finish, or gloss level, of the sealer.
Foundation Armor has two categories of concrete sealers that offer a wet look. First, we have the Armor WL550, and then we have several acrylic sealers, like the Armor AR350 and Armor AR500. The Armor WL550 offers a very slight color enhancement and behaves like a penetrating sealer. It is not designed to offer any type of gloss enhancement, and will not leave a surface film. The Armor AR350 and Armor AR500 offer a dramatic color enhancement and will leave a visible surface film. If you are looking for a dramatic color enhancement, or if you want a low to high gloss finish, you want to read more about low gloss and high gloss concrete sealers below.
Now, let’s dive into the WL550. The WL550 is a penetrating water-repellent sealer. It is designed to slightly enhance the color of the substrate and thrives when applied to red clay brick, and natural stone surfaces like flagstone, bluestone, and slate. While it can be applied to concrete and pavers, you typically don’t get a consistent wet look finish simply due to the porosity of the surface. The Armor WL550 is designed as a single coat application, and you have to be careful not to over-apply it. For this reason, the wet look can appear faded and inconsistent on highly porous surfaces like concrete and pavers. If you want a true wet look finish and you are sealing concrete or pavers, a low gloss or high gloss acrylic sealer is a better for achieving a consistent wet look finish.
Low Gloss Finish
If you want to achieve a low gloss, you want an acrylic sealer. Acrylic sealers will penetrate in order to bond, but they also leave behind a visible surface film. Foundation Armor manufactures several acrylic sealers, and it can be confusing if you are choosing a concrete sealer or paver sealer for the first time. So, let’s dive in and give you a quick summary.
If your concrete or pavers are unsealed, you can choose to seal with a solvent-based acrylic sealer or a water-based acrylic sealer. Both types of sealers will give you a level of gloss, but there are some differences between them.
First, solvent-based acrylic sealers, like the Armor AR350, will enhance the concrete and pavers to make them look wet. If you aren’t in love with how your concrete or pavers look dry, but you love them when they are wet, the Armor AR350 is the best choice. Water-based acrylic sealers, like the WB15, will offer a very subtle color enhancement, but nothing as dramatic as a solvent-based acrylic sealer. If you like what your concrete or pavers look like, and you want a very minimal color enhancement, then a water-based acrylic sealer is the best choice.
Low gloss concrete sealers are a great choice if you want a slight gloss finish. The porosity of the concrete and pavers will ultimately determine the actual gloss level, but we typically suggest the Armor AR350 or Armor WB15 if you want something glossy, but not too glossy.
Now, Foundation Armor also manufactures the Armor LV15 which is also a solvent-based low gloss acrylic sealer. We only suggest this sealer if you are applying it to new concrete simply because it doubles as a curing compound. There is no harm in applying the LV15 to concrete or pavers, it can just get confusing if you have too many options. As always, if you are torn between the two, the best way to decide is to apply them to a sample area on the surface you will be sealing.
High Gloss Finish
If you want a high gloss finish, you want an acrylic sealer. Like with the low gloss acrylic sealers, high gloss acrylic sealers penetrate in order to bond, and will leave behind a visible surface film. If you want the highest level of gloss you can get from a concrete sealer, then you want a high gloss acrylic. High gloss acrylic sealers are for people that like “glossy”.
Foundation Armor manufactures several acrylic sealers, and it can be confusing if you are choosing a concrete sealer or paver sealer for the first time. So, let’s dive in and give you a quick summary.
If your concrete or pavers are unsealed, you can choose to seal with a solvent-based acrylic sealer or a water-based acrylic sealer. Both types of sealers will give you a level of gloss, but there are some differences between them.
First, solvent-based acrylic sealers, like the Armor AR500, will enhance the concrete and pavers to make them look wet. If you aren’t in love with how your concrete or pavers look dry, but you love them when they are wet, the Armor AR500 is the best choice. Water-based acrylic sealers, like the WB25, will offer a very subtle color enhancement, but nothing as dramatic as a solvent-based acrylic sealer. If you like what your concrete or pavers look like, and you want a very minimal color enhancement, then a water-based acrylic sealer is the best choice.
Foundation Armor also manufactures the Armor LV25, Armor AX25, and Armor AG Brown Seal. The Armor LV25 is a cure and seal so we typically only suggest the Armor LV25 is you are applying the sealer to new concrete. There is no harm in applying the LV25 to concrete or pavers, it can just get confusing if you have too many options. The Armor AX25 is a siloxane infused high gloss acrylic. It combines a water-repellent sealer with an acrylic sealer to offer two products in one. The Armor AX25 is a great option for areas constantly exposed to water, like a pool deck, but it isn’t always necessary. The Armor AX25 is great for people that are torn between a water-repellent sealer and an acrylic sealer and would just prefer to use both. Lastly, the Armor AG Brown Seal is a brown-tinted sealer. This sealer is best for exposed aggregate concrete in need of a semi-transparent brown tinted color boost. If you apply the AG Brown Seal to poured concrete, stamped concrete, broom finished concrete, or concrete pavers, you can end up with a surface that looks dirty if the substrate doesn’t have brown tones in it already. If you are considering the Armor AG Brown seal on a surface other than exposed aggregate concrete, you should apply a sample to a test area first.
Colored Finish
Now, let’s talk additives. Foundation Armor solvent-based acrylic sealers are available in clear, and in color options. Clear is the most popular option because it will enhance the natural coloring of the concrete and pavers. If you want to add color, Foundation Armor has opaque color packs and semi-transparent color packs. Opaque color packs will provide a paint-like finish. Acrylic sealers that have an opaque color pack mixed in will cover the surface completely, just like paint. Semi-transparent color packs will provide a semi-transparent color enhancement. If you are going to use a semi-transparent color pack it is important to make sure you choose a color that is already existent in the concrete or pavers. For example, if your concrete is pulling gray, you want to use a semi-transparent gray color pack. If your concrete is pulling brown, you want to use a semi-transparent brown color pack. Semi-transparent color packs do not offer a consistent color however, so if this is an option you are considering, you should apply to a test area first to make sure you like the look. Semi-transparent color packs thrive when applied exposed aggregate concrete, and colored stamped concrete surfaces.
Sealing Concrete That is Already Sealed
We have gone over the different types of concrete sealers that you can apply to unsealed concrete and concrete pavers, so now I want to take some time to go over sealers for concrete and pavers that are already sealed.
What a sealer is, what it looks like, and how it performs remains the same, but what you CAN use, varies greatly. Some sealers simply don’t mix and combining them will result in a failed application. Here is a quick summary of what you can and can’t seal with based on what your concrete or concrete pavers are currently sealed with.
Silicate Densifiers and Surface Hardeners – If your concrete is currently sealed with a silicate densifier or surface hardener, you can apply anything to the surface. The only thing you need to be cautious of is the porosity of the surface. Densifiers are designed to fill in the pores with a crystalline barrier, therefore shrinking the size of the pores on the surface and below the surface. You want to make sure the substrate is able to easily and quickly accept liquid into the surface before attempting to applying anything to it.
Silane-Siloxane Water Repellent Sealers – You can’t apply a water-based sealer or coating over a surface that has been sealed with a water-repellent sealer because the water-repellent sealer will repel the sealer or coating, preventing it from penetrating and causing it to fail. You can apply a solvent-based acrylic sealer over a water repellent sealer however, as long as the sealer has been down for at least a week. Now, let’s say it has been 2 years and you want to reseal with a water-repellent sealer. If the surface quickly and easily absorbs water, it is typically ok to apply a light touch up coat – but you have to be careful. If some of the surface absorbs water, and some of it does not, you will end up with over application in some areas (which results in dark spots). If you are drying to reseal before the 7-10 year mark, please don’t hesitate to reach out to a Foundation Armor technician to see 1) if it is necessary and 2) if it is safe to do so.
Water-Based Acrylic Salers – If you have a water-based acrylic sealer down, the typical protocol is to reseal with a water-based acrylic sealer. Applying a solvent-based acrylic sealer over a water-based acrylic sealer could result in coating failure. If want to switch from a water-based acrylic sealer to a solvent-based acrylic sealer, you want to remove the old acrylic sealer completely before switching.
Solvent-Based Acrylic Sealers – If you have a solvent-based acrylic sealer down, the typical protocol is to reseal with a solvent-based acrylic sealer. Apply a water-based acrylic sealer over a solvent-based acrylic sealer could result in coating failure. If you want to switch from a solvent-based acrylic sealer to a water-based acrylic sealer, you want to remove the old acrylic sealer completely before switching. Now, technically in some cases, you can put a water-based acrylic sealer over a solvent-based acrylic sealers, but doing this doesn’t always have positive results which is why we don’t like to suggest doing it. Long term you can also run into issues with not knowing how to appropriately repair the coating should issues arise. In our opinion, you should always stick with what’s down.
The next big topic to touch on is knowing when you need to remove the old sealer or coating before sealing. Typically this only applies to acrylic sealers because penetrating sealers are below the surface and are near impossible to remove once applied. If your water-based acrylic sealer or solvent-based acrylic sealer is showing sings of issues or delamination, you want to repair or remove them before applying anything to the surface – otherwise, the problems of the old acrylic will transfer to the new acrylic.
Water-based acrylic sealers can’t be repaired. Unfortunately, if a water-based acrylic sealer is showing signs of issues or delamination, it would need to be removed. Acrylic sealers typically show signs of having an issue if there are bubbles, white spots, white haze, or if the acrylic sealer is peeling up.
Solvent-based acrylic sealers can easily be repaired with Xylene, or the Armor Blush Repair. If the acrylic sealer is showing signs of issues or delamination, you simply roll over the coating with Xylene or the Armor Blush Repair for 30-60 second until the sealer re-emulsifies, and then you let it cure. If the acrylic sealer dries and looks great, you are safe to re-seal. If the acrylic sealer dries and shortly after the issues re-appear, this is a clear sign that the coating has failed. In most cases the old acrylic will have to be removed, but it is more important to try and figure out what caused the failure so that the new acrylic sealer doesn’t fail either. In some cases, it is from using a poor quality sealer, but other factors can also include a lack of porosity, large amounts of water or moisture present in the substrate, a unclean or unprepped surface, and other factors. If this is happening to your existing sealer, please contact a Foundation Armor technician so we can help determine the cause, and hopefully help to assist in a successful re-application.
Penetrating Sealer VS Acrylic Sealer
Simply put, penetrating sealers work below the surface and acrylic sealers remain on the surface. Typically, you choose a sealer based on what you want your concrete and pavers to look like once sealed, but in some cases, performance requirements can over-ride aesthetics. Here is a quick summary of how the two compare:
· Penetrating sealers work entirely below the surface and are the best alternative to not sealing at all. They help to reduce a long list of issues, but they can’t stop them because the surface is still exposed. Penetrating sealers are a great option for all types of concrete, paver, brick, and natural stone surfaces – especially if you don’t want to change the look, color, or feel of the substrate. You can seal and forget for up to 7-10 years.
· Acrylic sealers leave a visible, protective film on the surface and are great for stopping a variety of issues. The protective film is designed to take the abuse so that the concrete and pavers don’t. The downfall is in order to get complete and total protection, you have to apply and maintain a coating every 1-3 years.
What a Concrete Sealer Can’t Do For You
Sealers are great, and it is typically always better to seal than to leave your concrete or pavers exposed, but many companies will promote that a sealer is capable of doing something that it simply can’t. At Foundation Armor, we would much rather give you quality information, than sell you a sealer you can’t use. For that reason, we want to de-bunk some sealer myths.
Myth #1: Sealers stop oil from staining concrete and pavers. As we went over above, penetrating sealers leave the surface exposed, and acrylic sealers leave a protective film on the surface. Knowing that, let’s dive a little deeper into this topic.
· Penetrating Sealers: Penetrating sealers leave the surface exposed, so they can’t stop oil from staining concrete and pavers. During manufacturing you can fluorinated some chemicals (Silane-Siloxane sealers for example), but there are a few things wrong with this. Fluorinating a sealer can help it to repel oil, but it is still repelling below the surface, and it will still eventually break down from exposure to the oil. Unless there is a coating, there is nothing between the oil and the concrete or pavers – therefore, they will stain. The second thing wrong with fluorination is that it can break down the integrity of the sealer. What you are sacrificing to gain a superficial repellency may not be worth it. This is where the conversation can start to get deep, but at the end of the day if the surface is exposed, it is vulnerable.
· Acrylic Sealers: Acrylic sealers will absolutely stop oil from getting to your concrete and pavers, but only temporarily and for a very short period of time. If the oil is cleaned up immediately, you may skate by without having to repair the acrylic but eventually the oil will eat through the acrylic and make its way to the concrete and pavers below. How long the acrylic can withstand the oil, how much oil it can withstand, and how much damage the oil causes to the acrylic, will depend on several factors including the type and amount of oil, the age of the acrylic, the amount of acrylic down, etc.
Myth #2: Sealers stop tire marks. This is false for every type of sealer, penetrating and acrylic. Tire marks are caused from rubber coming off the tire and bonding to the surface it comes into contact with. Tire marks form on everything – the main road, your driveway, your garage – everything. The only way you can stop hot rubber from coming off your tire onto your concrete or pavers is to cool off the tire before it drives over it. Tire marks can also be caused by the transfer of material. For example, if you drive over a road that was recently paved, the tar can transfer onto your tires and then onto your concrete. If you drive through a dirty parking lot, the dirt can transfer onto your tires and then onto your concrete. The only way to deal with tire marks, is to clean them.
Myth #3: Sealers stop mold and mildew. Mold and mildew is caused from the consistent presence of water and moisture, and the lack of light. Mold and mildew love dark, wet areas. Using a sealer, penetrating or acrylic, can absolutely help reduce mold growth, but not in the way you think. Penetrating sealers and acrylic sealers help to keep water closer to the surface so that it can evaporate faster. They reduce the amount of water that can get through the surface, therefore reducing water saturation. The faster concrete and pavers can dry, the less likely they are to have mold and mildew form on the surface. If you have a corner of your patio that fills up with water and never gets sun, mold and mildew can still grow in those areas.
Myth #4: Sealers seal cracks. Sealers are not crack repair products and should not be treated as such. The resin size of any sealer can’t fill in a crack, gap, or opening. A sealer will penetrate in and line the sides and bottom of the crack, but it will not fill in the gap of the crack and can’t act as a crack repair method. The only way to repair a crack, especially one large enough to allow large amounts of water to pass through, is with a crack repair product.
Myth #5: Sealers stop leaf stains. Leaf stains, also known as tannin stains, are caused when leaves get wet, or come into contact with water or moisture. When leaves get wet, tannins are released from the leaf onto the surface where the leaf resides. This can happen on wood, concrete, metal, and other materials. Unfortunately, the tannin will bond to whatever it comes into contact with and the only way to stop leaf stains is to remove the dry leaves from the surface before they get wet with water, moisture, or dew. Once the leaf stain appears, it needs to be cleaned off. Like with tire marks, leaf stains are formed from an external material being deposited onto the surface. If a penetrating sealer is used, the leaf stains will form on the surface of the concrete or pavers. If an acrylic sealer is used, the leaf stains will be left on the acrylic sealer. While an acrylic sealer will stop the leaf stains from getting to the concrete, it can’t stop the leaf stains from forming.
Myth #6: Sealers stop hard water stains. Hard water is water that is filled with minerals. Water from irrigation and other sources, such as rain, travels across surfaces and leaves behind deposits. When the water dries or evaporates, these minerals are left on the surface where they dried. Hard water stains are confusing because they resemble efflorescence, and a failing acrylic, and appear as a white haze. In some cases, hard water stains can be rinsed off the surface, but in more severe cases, a cleaner and pressure washer need to be used. Like with tire marks and leaf stains, hard water stains are formed from an external material being left on the surface. If a penetrating sealer was used, the mineral deposits will form on the concrete or pavers, and if an acrylic sealer was used, the mineral deposits will form on the acrylic. While acrylic sealers can offer protection from the hard water getting to the concrete, they can’t stop the hard water stains from forming.
Still need help finding the best concrete sealer for your application? Contact us today at 866-306-0246.